Then I added the floor. I used a 3mm thick plate
for this. Some other off-road trailers also use 3mm thick floors,
but most of them only use 2.5mm thick floors. Because my trailer
will be a multi purpose trailer which will be used to load bricks
and mortar, I decided to go for a thicker floor. If you only use
your trailer for camping, there is no reason your really should
use 3mm, I am sure 2.5mm would be perfect for you. Because my
trailer is 1.2 meters wide, I only had to cut off a 400mm piece
on the length of the plate. No cutting on the length was necessary.
I have a big (1.2mx2.4m) steel table. I placed the
sheet for the floor on the table and put the frame on top of it.
Then welded the floor onto the frame.
I actually screwed up big time here. I know that
the metal will expand as it heats up So I started at the one end
working towards the other end as to give it space to expand to.
Still the metal distorted and my floor is not nice and flat. I
should have welded smaller runs at a time and allowed for cooling
after every second weld.

Just to overdo it nicely, I also welded the corner supports to
the floor.

And then welded it all the way round on the outer edge.

I added extra support on the inside of the lip channel in order
to prevent the lip channel from bending open. I added 20mmx3mm
flat bar.

On the area where the saddle is attached to the
frame, I welded an extra 50mmx5mm flat bar for extra strength.
I was afraid that the thin wall thickness of the lip channel might
not be enough to support the vibration from the springs. It actually
happened to me years ago on a tour through Namibia where our trailer's
one saddle broke out from the frame and damaged the frame. Luckily
we did not loose the trailer and repaired it in Swakop by doing
exactly what I did here, to weld in another piece of flat bar.
Just to make sure the flat bar cannot move, I gave
it a proper weld just above each saddle.

The position of the axle is a much debated point.
It is very important to put the axle in the right position because
it will influence the stability of your trailer. One place where
it must definitely NOT be is in the middle of the trailer or in
front of the middle.
The further you put the axle to the back, the more
stable your trailer will be. BUT if you put it too far back the
load on your vehicle will be too much. The position of the axle
is pretty much a personal choice. Some of the off road trailers
have it as far as 300mm behind the centre. I personally do not
like this because you will end up with a high load on your tow
bar. I know of various people who had to put in firmer suspension
for their vehicles because of such trailers. I placed my axle
150mm behind the center of the trailer. (This is the center of
the floor part of the trailer, excluding the tow bar)
In order to determine where you have to weld the
saddles for the leaf springs, determine the center of the floor.
At this time the floor will only be a rectangular block, but the
time has come to now mark the front of your floor clearly. Get
the center of the floor and then measure (in my case) 150mm to
the back and make a clear mark.
Attach the saddles to the spring pack and put the
spring pack on the frame so that it stand up in position. You
will note that the bottom blade will have a hole in it. That is
the hole that will keep the axle in place. Align that hole to
the mark you made where the axle must be. Only do the one side
for now. Position the spring pack. Make sure that it is aligned
properly and then only tack each saddle to the frame. Now you
measure the distance from the front saddle to the front of he
frame and use that measurement to determine the position of the
saddles on the other side.
I might also mention that I bought a new axle and
at this time the axle brackets was not welded on yet. If you bought
a second hand axle with the brackets already attached to it you
would have to fit the spring packs to the axle and then put it
on the trailer in order to determine the position of the saddles.